Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument wasn’t originally on our travel itinerary. But with a few unexpected open days between our stays in Zion National Park and Kodachrome Basin State Park, we decided to venture a bit farther — past Bryce Canyon and Kodachrome — and spend a few nights in the town of Escalante, Utah at a private campground.

One thing we’ve learned on this journey is that you won’t always land the perfect reservations at all the major parks — but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. In this case, it gave us the opportunity to explore a part of southern Utah we might have otherwise passed right by.

Grand Staircase-Escalante spans a staggering 1.9 million acres of rugged, remote, and breathtaking terrain. We only scratched the surface, exploring a small portion near the northern edge of the monument — but the views were absolutely stunning. Vast canyons, colorful cliffs, and dramatic rock formations greeted us around every turn.

The highlight of this detour was the drive along Scenic Byway 12 — a route that absolutely lives up to its reputation. With elevations ranging from 4,000 to nearly 10,000 feet, the landscape shifted dramatically throughout the drive. Even towing our RV, the road was manageable and surprisingly quiet, which let us take our time and really enjoy the ride.

And yes — Laurie did enjoy the experience, despite the steep drop-offs, minimal shoulders, and occasional lack of guardrails. (That’s saying something!)

While in the area, we hiked the Lower Calf Creek Falls Trail, a 6-mile round trip hike through a wide, scenic canyon that ends at a spectacular 126-foot waterfall. The trail itself winds along Calf Creek with interpretive signs along the way and plenty of opportunities to spot petroglyphs and wildlife. The reward at the end — a beautiful waterfall plunging into a cool, clear pool — made the effort more than worthwhile.

We also took a slow and rough ride down Hole-in-the-Rock Road to reach Devil’s Garden, a compact but surreal area filled with hoodoos, natural arches, and otherworldly rock formations. It felt like a natural playground tucked deep into the desert. The road was rugged and washboarded, but passable with care — and the destination was absolutely worth it.

If you’re building your Utah itinerary, we highly recommend including Highway 12 and Grand Staircase-Escalante. Sometimes the places you didn’t plan on become the most memorable parts of the journey.